I adore magazines.
To hear that a good one is dying in its prime really makes me sad.
A league division
table of my top 35 magazines would be:
|
JAPAN | USA | UK | FRANCE | SWEDEN |
sense that core self might be redrawn by something inside, obligatory purchase |
BT, Tokion, Studio Voice | Village Voice, New York Review of Books, Index, Artforum | Frieze | Crash | |
|
|||||
|
Beikoku Ongaku, Barfout, H, Cutie, Marquee | Hermenaut, Surface, Big | Wire, Blueprint, i-D | Magic, Nova, Blocnotes | Merge |
|
|||||
|
Fruits, Petit Glam | Dazed and Confused, Sleazenation, NME, The Face, Mojo, Q, Wallpaper | Les Inrockuptibles |
Blitz and
Actuel
went
belly up at the end of the 80s, unable to reset their
zeitgeist clocks
when the decade changed. It can happen that a magazine dies and is reborn
in another decade. My brother's girlfriend used to be commissioning editor
at a publishing house owned by lyricist Tim Rice. Her two big coffeetable
titles were a book of photos of Kate Moss called
Kate and a selection
from the pages of late 60s and early 70s Nova magazine. Nova died
in 1973, but has been revived this year. I think it's obvious it'll never
live up to its former incarnation as the magazine of cardine-clad eyebrowless
glam rock androgynes. Its hour has passed, but Nova's honour is to have
captured the moment better than anyone else.
A good magazine
can die young and leave a beautiful corpse. Even though I've never seen
a copy, for instance, I know from cultural histories of the 60s that The
International Times was where it was at, and I'm sure that a yellow
copy happened upon in a junk store would be a time machine powerful enough
to bring a whole subculture back to life. I'm sure a couple of naked photos
of Germaine Greer and a rant by Jeff Nuttall about performance
art and bomb culture could conjure 1968 as vividly as Charles Shaar
Murray, writing his cheesecloth-and-cocaine prose in the NME,
could take someone who wasn't even born then straight back to the heart
of the 70s. I'd love to see a copy of mid-70s Screw, the subcultural
sex magazine edited by Jim Haynes in Amsterdam. I'm sure it would
make just about everything available today look sorry, PC, and tame.
It's the very things
that make magazines trivial and tendentious -- their unnecessary depth
of detail, their uncritical allegiance to the transitory memes of the moment
-- which make them so brilliant a time-travelling resource, and, finally,
valuable to other ages even when they're only diverting in their own.
Actually, that's
probably the reason I love retro-tech, secondhand clothes, and anything
foreign. Things that exert a normative power in their intended context,
socialising us and influencing us to converge to prescriptive models, suddenly
have the opposite effect when they're put in a new context (another country,
another era). They encourage divergence, exploration, fresh ways of
thinking. At short distances the spume of cultural disjecta
can become excessively familiar, warm, kitschy. But if you delve a little
deeper into the junk store you can find stuff that time or distance has
transformed -- like the best art -- into something perverse, challenging,
unsettling. (Another reason we urgently need a non-perjorative word
for 'kitsch'.)
When a magazine dies a sensibility, a style, a particular way of looking
at the world vanishes forever. What's worse, it always seems to be the
best magazines that go under, the ones that we read, the ones that
over-estimate rather than under-estimate the public, the ones that focus
on creativity rather than celebrity.
One of my prize possessions is a CD-ROM containing every page of every
National
Geographic magazine from 1960 to 1995. The articles that, at the time,
I would have found dull and worthy I now find fascinating: long explications
of mainframe computing, with deliciously wrongheaded prognostications on
the future applications of the Univac. But actually the greatest thing
for me is the advertising. Advertising in the present is an irritating
buttonhole. But advertising from the past is a delight. Those typefaces!
That odd, clunky -- or witty, Ogden-Nashy -- copy style! Those implicit
promises of cutting edge kudos attached to
Super 8 cameras and
long-dead video game consoles!
This time round
I boxed only Frieze and Studio Voice -- a magazine in a language
I don't even understand! I suppose one day I may learn Japanese, and then
I'll be glad I paid top dollar to have them shipped behind me across the
globe.
I remember, ten
years after graduating, throwing out -- with a weird sense of identity-seppuku
-- copies of the literary magazines Bananas and Gambit, well-thumbed
issues full of short stories by Ron Butlin and Thomas Bernhard,
articles about plays by Tadeusz Kantor and Dario Fo, magazines
which, through four years of chrysalloid growth at an ice-cold university
in Aberdeen, drip fed me valuable dreams of a future life as a decadent
cosmopolitan butterfly.
Like any jetset junky, I can tell you where to go in each city to find
high
quality magazines. In LA check Little Tokyo or locate the gigantic
newsstand hidden just off Hollywood Boulevard (make a right three blocks
east of the Chinese Theater). In London, visit Colindale's Oriental
Plaza for the best prices on Japanese titles, the basement of Waterstones Art
Bookstore on Long Acre or the ICA Bookshop for art. In Tokyo make
for ABC in Roppongi, Shibuya Tower for foreign stuff, Digitalogue in Harajuku
for really cool designery things (and font floppies!), Nadiff for art.
In Paris, Collette on Rue St Honore is your best bet. In
Dublin
head for Temple Bar. Amsterdam is a magazine lover's paradise where
the cafes have surprisingly decent selections lying around. But if you
want to buy, there's a great place, here, just follow me towards the Prizengracht...
In Edinburgh, mail order is about your only option.
In New York there's Universal News on Broadway, Asahiya at Grand
Central Station or Kinokuniya at the Rockerfeller Center for the Japanese,
Other Music for music, Zakka on Grand for cool Jap design and style stuff,
Zao on Orchard for a good selection of Japanese and French fashion and
art titles. And ah! The daddy of all rare and fabulous magazine stores,
a place where I feel like I've died and gone to heaven, Printed Matter
on Wooster Street. This is the Soho Mecca for artists' handmade books,
zines, CDs, tiny-run surreal scrawly publications you'll never see anywhere
else accompanied by exhibitions like the current show of Sonic Youth
artwork and posters since 1981.
In fact, my mental map of many a city features the most interesting possible
route from magazine store A (Japan Centre, Piccadilly) to magazine
store B (Waterstones, Long Acre). One of my biggest dilemmas when I move
house is trying to decide which titles from my huge stacks of glossy paper
I should box up and transport across oceans, and which I should jettison.
Sifting through them all, I end up absorbed, fascinated, reading stuff
I never saw first time around, hardly aware of time passing until I suddenly
notice that evening has arrived and I can't see the pages any more.
Sometimes I buy a magazine twice, because when I see it again I don't remember
reading it and think it's one I don't have. Are magazines talismanic?
Magazines won't give you harsh truths and eternal verities, they'll
just tell you about the tiny, exciting ripples on the stagnant pond of
history. You only have to look at a magazine from ten years ago to realise
how dangerous it is to give yourself up to the trends of the moment, and
how regrettably foolish you'll one day appear if you dress, think, speak
and act the way even the coolest magazines suggest. Take them, by all means,
and take them regularily. But keep reading your Moliere, your Shakespeare
and your Sam Beckett for the eternal verities.
There are risks involved with high magazine intake. I think the french
word 'tendence' is a good one for the biggest danger. 'Tendence' means
'tendency' or 'trend', but it also has a suggestion of 'tendentious', which
means misleading. The kind of magazines I'm talking about can, like drugs,
lead you into a world of total unreality and of alienation from your fellow
man. The implication that a 'tendence', starting off in the ateliers of a few highly creative taste-makers, can end up influencing the whole direction of humanity is, unfortunately, tendentious.
To this day, if
I meet someone I've first read about in a magazine, I feel like I'm in
the presence of a demi-god. And few things in life feel as rewarding as
seeing yourself spread across two pages of a magazine you respect and read
regularily, even if the pictures aren't as great as they might be and the
sub has picked out the most insufferably pompous thing you've said (Momus
in Time Out London, 1999: 'I'm a cross between Robinson Crusoe
and Randolph W. Hearst').
I've never been
on a magazine cover, but I can dream, can't I? (Actually, I let Kahimi
Karie do the covergirl dirty work for me. She's much better at it.)
Magazines reflect
contemporary life with its tendentious trends, its haphazard happenstance.
Like FedEx or a Chinatown fishmonger, they try to deliver
ideas to you while they're still fresh, because nobody wants old ideas
just like nobody wants old fish. If you're an artist, magazines don't wait
until you're dead to cover you, which is kind of nice. And if, like me,
you think bandwagon-jumping is second only to bandwagon-building as a respectable
creative activity, they're more useful than the municipal bus timetable.
What magazines do best, though, is give us a delicious sense of glamour,
a sense of how our lives could be more sexy, more colourful, more exciting,
more intelligent, more glossy. They convince us that somewhere someone
is cooler and more keyed-in than we are, and can teach us by their example
to be just a little bit more creative.